Thursday, July 19, 2012

Can Scotch In A Can Stand Up To The Real Thing?


Spoiler alert: There will be no upsets on this page. Pitting cheap Scotch from a can against Johnny Walker is like locking Justin Bieber in a UFC cage with George St. Pierre, or signing Mary-Kate Olsen up for a hot dog eating contest with Joey Chestnut. You know who’s going to win before the showdown starts. But let's be honest: Scottish spirits was asking for a battle. Putting single-malt Scotch into a can is a supreme act of arrogance, and as such, it deserves to be appraised without mercy.

To be fair, there’s good reason to root for the underdog. Maybe canned Scotch is exactly what the world needs. Fancy though glass may be, it's heavier and harder to dispose of than aluminum. It allows light to pass through and slowly erode whatever is in the bottle, and a twist-off cap will never be as airtight as a sealed can. By that measure, aluminum has the advantage. And the fact that it’s inexpensive should be of no consequence. Consider wine. Studies have demonstrated that $60 bottles are no better—and often worse—than $20 bottles. Scotch, however, is not wine, and what ultimately matters is the liquid inside the can or bottle. That’s what I set out to explore.

The Challenger: Scottish Spirits Single Grain Scotch (12 oz. can)
Price: $5
Age: 3 Years

Defending Champion: Johnnie Walker Black Label Blended Scotch (750 ml bottle)
Price: $34
Age: 12 years, minimum

The Contest:
A blind taste test with half a dozen Men's Health scribes working late on a Friday (translation: in dire need of a drink). Each taster received two plastic cups, one with two fingers of Johnnie Walker and one with two fingers of canned Scotch. Tasters sniffed, sipped, and decided which was the better-tasting Scotch.

The Results:
Shutout, TKO, bloodbath—pick your metaphor. The contest played out exactly how you’d expect; every taster knew immediately which Scotch was which. The canned whisky was described as "almost carbonated” and "like colored vodka." The Johnnie Walker, on the other hand, was extolled for being deep, rich, and shot through with all the barrel’s smoke and vanilla character. I have to say, I was hoping for a Rudy-level miracle, but I didn’t get it. Adjusted for volume Black Label costs more than three times as much as the canned scotch. My rag-tag group of tasters said it was worth it.

The Verdict:
Although Scottish Spirits’ canned Scotch didn't make an impact, nobody was terribly offended, either. All tasters agreed that it was surprisingly smooth for an 80-proof spirit, and some commented that it had the soft sweetness of sweet apple candy. When asked whether they would consider packing it for a camping trip or a concert festival, the answer was a unanimous yes; the aluminum can and cheap price tag make it a guaranteed party starter. But true to name, Johnnie Walker upheld its title admirably. Now if only I could find Black Label in a can…

 


Via: Can Scotch In A Can Stand Up To The Real Thing?